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Godalming Photographic Club |
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Photography |
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Techniques, |
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Hints & Tips |
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Continued
from Page 2, Point 5: |
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6. |
Again
on the back of the new mount, mark the guidelines for cutting
with the bevel cutter. These depend a bit on the cutter you have
- mine requires these lines to be exactly one inch nearer the
centre than the cut is to be made. |
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7. |
Holding
the board down firmly, place the cutter guide on the line and
cut. Dangers here are that the cutter guide will slip (hold the
guide down very firmly), that the cutter head will distort if
you press too hard (don't) and that you will cut too far. The
other cutter guidelines at 90 degrees tell you when to stop!
Your blade needs to be sharp and you should always have more
pressure on the ruler or cutter guide than on the knife or cutter.
You may well find that you haven't cut through enough (repeat)
or far enough (use the craft knife to finish the job). |
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8. |
Mount
the print on the backing board which can with advantage have
first been coated with white paper, because modern printing papers
tend to be a bit thin and transparent, so any darkness behind
your print will show through and dull your highlights. Cut the
result to a size which will enable you to fasten it to the back
of the matt with masking tape - about half to one inch smaller
than the matt. |
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9. |
Fix
some temporary pieces of masking tape to the edges of the backing
board, place the matt over it, in exact position lightly press
the tape to the back of the matt, check that it's right, turn
it all over and fasten down firmly with more masking tape. Check
it all again! Clean up any marks with the rubber. |
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10. |
It's
well worth while to practice the use of your cutter and guide
before you use it for real! And your cutting mat will last longer
if you put scrap board over it when making bevel cuts. |
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From
a talk to GPC by Ron Head - January 2007 |
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